Maison Troisgros - Although perfection doesn't exist, that was damm close !

Dear friends,

I don’t really know how to introduce the restaurant I want to talk about today. I am just going to say it was probably one of the best, if not the best, meal of my life!

The amuses-bouches with pressed sepia, seasoned watermelon on toast and cheese filled fried fillo.

During the Easter weekend, my family and I first planned to go on a little trip somewhere in Europe. For various reasons (and mainly because we just didn’t organized anything) we finally decided to stayed in Geneva. This was in the end a very wise decision. Why? Because, on the Friday of Easter, my dad decided to take us all to Roanne. Now, why would we all travel 3 hours with the car to a little city in the region of Lyon where nothing happens? Well, obviously for a restaurant!

The Maison Troisgros, located in the center of Roanne, is one of the most famous 3*Michelin Restaurant in France. It has been so for ages. The actual owner/chef, Michel, comes from a dynasty of great chefs that brought a lot to the gastronomy over the past decades. His father and grandfather were two of the leader of the “nouvelle cuisine” movement in the 70’s and 80’s. Although paying a tribute to them in his menus, by including some of their signature dishes, Michel distanced himself quite a lot from his peers to nowadays produce a “cuisine” of his own.

The amuse bouche: Couteaux and granny smith jelly

You can imagine the pleasure and the excitement I felt when I knew we were going to have diner there. Troisgros is a monument. Honestly, I felt like a soccer fan going to exchange some passing shots with Zinedine Zidane !

The very thin pline filled with artichoke mousse !

After a nice afternoon in Lyon (which is a lovely city btw) we finally arrived there around 7. Just in time for a shower (yes they have very nice rooms and it is always safer not to drive back home after such a dinner) and a little trip to the “épicerie fine”, and we were ready to eat. Since we were a bit early, the Maître d’Hôtel took us for a little tour of the kitchen and we had the chance to talk for a few minutes with the chef. Michel Troisgros is a very nice person and I was astonished by his simplicity and his humbleness (after all, in the world of high end gastronomy, that guy is a rock star!).

Since my dad is allergic to many clams and oysters, we decided not to take the tasting menu but to creat a four course menu on our own by ordering half portioned “entrées”.

The pre-dessert: Gariguette and coconut folded cake with coconut mousse inside

I am not sure it is really worth describing what we ate because I would have to write far too many time the words “amazing” and “extraordinary”, but I’ll give it a try: We started of with some perfectly cooked frogs (for me), a fried macreau (for “Moman”) and some really originally presented and prepared Ecrevisses for my dad and my bro (the notoriously famous Mimi).

The ecrevisses

We then enjoyed some fish. I have to say, I think I ordered the best one, a “Turbot”, slow-cooked for 25 minutes at 52°C topped with a crust made out of anchovies and sepia! My brother decided to try the “St-Pierre”, shaped like a flower with layers of black truffles and its black truffle sauce. Honestly, it was just completely crazy !

The most incredible turbot ever ! 

As a main dish, the whole table chose to taste one of the most original dishes I ever tried: A duo of rabbit and Langoustine wrapped and cooked together. It is with those dishes that you realize the level of technique that chefs like Troisgros have managed to master. These two very different ingredients were just perfectly cooked. On top of that, it was going perfectly with the 2004 Meursault my dad and I shared along the diner.

After a little cheese cannelloni that my father and I couldn’t resist to order, we received the dessert! I first tried my brother’s chocolate tart and I felt nearly sad because I thought my dessert wouldn’t arrive to this level of yumminess. I had ordered a lemon soufflé. And well, it was the best I ever ate. It was so soft and light, I had the impression I was eating a cloud!

The incredible Soufflé !

After a little coffee and a Chartreuse (VEP off course!), I went to bed feeling really light and slept like a baby. I could also write a whole article about the breakfast there but that might be for another time.

I just can’t thank my parents enough for taking us there. I realize how lucky I am to have the opportunity to go eat in such restaurants with them and enjoy some quality family time when it happens. I hope I’ll be able one day to do the same with my children.

Even the sugar cubes are branded : an idea to steal 

I can only advise you to go try this restaurant at least once in your life. Off course, it doesn’t come cheap, but Troisgros is to cuisine what, for example,  Hermès or Loro Piana are to fashion, and it is really worth both the trip and the price.

I nearly forgot to mention the decoration is actually quite nice with some very interesting contemporary photos and that the service…well the service was just perfect, with no mistake and a constant attention to every detail.

the fantastic Tuiles that came with the coffee !

From Zürich with love,

Mr. Nico

Maison Troisgros

1 place Jean Troisgros

42300 Roanne (near Lyon)

+ 33 4 77 71 66 97

www.troisgros.fr

for more information and if you speak french, I encourage you to go check out the the page of this restaurant on my partner website Itaste : http://bit.ly/j0VeQW